- Renew engine oil and filter (Be sure to do this)

- Check exhaust system for leaks, security and damage (Do you know how carbon monoxide (CO) kills? The Co molecule attaches itself to a red blood cell, taking a place where an oxygen (O2) molecule would be, making that red blood cel worthless (get enough contaminated red blood cells and you suffocate))

- Check condition of driving belts, adjust if required

- Renew positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) intake filter, check and clean PCV system (This can actually affect gas mileage and oil consumption)

- Renew fuel filter (Clean fuel is GOOD)

- Renew Charcoal Canister (I don't know that I've ever heard of anyone replacing one of these.....)

- Renew Catalytic Converters (Ummm, yeah, I'll bet Ford would like to sell us a whole bunch of catalytic converters since they have an overstock of materials, but we can TEST these spendy little guys to verify operation, if they are noisey or leaking you can tell (since the part runs $1340.50, wouldn't you like to stretch it out?) I have 203,000 miles on mine at this writing, no noise, no leaks and still cleaning my exhaust (now I've done it, better just order a set). Seriously, if the engine is kept in tune and the exhaust isn't permitted to leak, these seem to be able to run a long time.)

- Check/top up cooling system (Try not to let that engine get hot, if you're low on coolant you might not even know you've overheated - keep track or coolant use, we see headgaskets leaking,sometimes the short engine leaks (you always wanted a 4.6L engine anyway, right?)

- Check ignition wiring and High Tension leads for fraying, chafing and deterioration (Ignition component deterioration seems to be the most common cause of starting & running issues on these models)

- Clean distributor cap and rotor arm, check for cracks and tracking. Lubricate rotor spindle with rotor arm removed.

- Check/adjust ignition timing

- Check engine idle speed

- Check fuel evaporative loss control system for leaks (If you're smeling raw fuel, but aren't seeing fuel dripping on ground, there might be something here)

- Check fuel filler cap seal for leaks

- Check fuel pipes, filler hoses and connections for leaks and security

- Check engine emission control system hoses, tubes and vacuum lines for security and condition

- Check operation of electronic control unit/systems (Warning lights will generally let you know, else something simply won't work, let your technician know if you've been having some problems)

- Check operation of auxiliary emission control devices

- Reset emission maintenance reminder

- Check/top up transfer box oil

- Check/Top up front axle oil

- Check/top up rear axle oil

- Check/top up swivel housing oil

- Check/top up power steering fluid

- Check/top up automatic transmission fluid

- Check/top up brake fluid

- Check for oil/fluid leaks from: suspension dampers and self levelling unit

- Check foot brake operation

- Check condition and security of steering unit, joints and gaiters (boots)

- Check/adjust steering box

- Check front wheel alignment (This is done with a tape measure)

- Check operation of throttle mechanical linkage and transmission cable

- Check battery condition (Don't wait for the morning you really need it)

- Clean and grease battery terminals

- Clean/adjust spark plugs (I'm sorry, but IMHO for the price of new plugs, you're better off just replacing them)

- Check condition and security of seats, seat belt mountings, belts and buckles (Not a bad idea)

- Check tightness of propeller shaft coupling bolts

- Check exhaust system for leaks, security and damage

- Check operation of cruise control (This is another thing you can just mention, it can be kind of hard to test in the city)

- Check tires comply with manufacturer's specification (I know, I know, a few of you are running something else, I won't tell)

- Check tires for cuts, lumps, bulges, uneven wear, tread depth and road wheels for damage (Any vibrations, 'pulls' or 'drifts' you've been wondering about, good place to start)

- Check/adjust tire pressures including spare

- Check/adjust headlamp and auxiliary lamp alignment (Minnesota has very precise lighting specifications, you can find them in the state statutes at http://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/stats/169/ along with several other interesting bits)

- Check operation of all instruments, fuel and temperature gauges, warning indicators, lamps, horns and audio unit (It's ok to tell us that something doesn't seem 'right')

- Check operation of front and rear screen and headlamp wash/wipers

- Clear sunroof drain tubes (Maybe this is why my headliner fell down.....)

- Check operation of all doors, hood, tailgate locks and window controls

- Lubricate all locks (not steering lock), hinges and door check mechanisms

- Check operation of heater and airconditioning systems (Please mention if something is not heating/cooling or is making noise)

- Check brake pipes/unions for security, chafing, leaks and corrosion (Important)

- Check power steering system for leaks, hydraulic pipes/unions for security, chafing and corrosion (Lotsa leaks here)

- Check fuel pipes for leaks (You should smell this, but good to look them over)

- Check cooling and heater systems for leaks, hoses for security and condition (always)

- Check/top up cooling system

- Inspect brake pads for wear, calipers for leaks and discs for condition

- Check security and operation of park brake (Please don't operate without a parking brake, the transmission's PARK is not all that strong)

- Lubricate park brake mechnical linkage

- Lubricate propeller shaft universal joints

- Lubricate propeller shaft sealed sliding joints

- Check applicability/perform annual Corrosion Perforation Limited Warranty (I guess this has expired by now....)

ADDITIONAL RECOMMENDATIONS:

- EVERY 15,000 mile intervals or 18 months (whichever is the sooner) the hydraulic brake fluid must be completely renewed (This is very important, brake fluid is hygroscopic (attracts moisture), water and brake fluid is corrosive and will damage brake system components; additionally, water greatly reduces the brake fluid boiling point (resulting in brake fade))

- At 37,500 mile intervals or every three years (whichever is the sooner) all hydraulic brake fluid, seals and flexible hoses should be renewed, all working surfaces of the master cylinder, wheel cylinders and caliper cylinders should be examined and renewed where necessary; REMOVE all suspension dampers, test for correct operation, refit or renew as necessary (Are they crazy? This sounds like a military list, if these parts are leaking, either brake performance changes or a visual inspection is all that's needed from a practical viewpoint. On the other hand, if you want the car to perform 'like new'.....)

- The Anti Lock Brake (ABS) accumulator should be inspected every four years and replaced if necessary (We haven't seen these fail with any regularity....)

- At two year intervals, the cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled with the required water and anti-freeze solution (Yes, it should.)